Design your wedding dress from scratch

There are hundreds and thousands of wedding dresses out there and we love nothing more than pouring over designers’ new collections.

But what if you actually can’t find a gown that is ‘The One’ for you? Or if you have a very definite idea of what you want?

Don’t despair. Instead of crying in the rails of taffeta and tulle it’s time to consider having your dress designed especially for you.

We speak to two designers who know just how to help brides turn their dreams into reality with a bespoke gown.

Megan Pankay launched NutMeg Couture Bridal in 2010 and has been helping brides realise their dream dress ever since.

“The best benefit [of having your wedding dress made from scratch] is there is no compromise, just a perfect gown that is unique and perfect for you,” she says.

“It’s a fun, creative process that is broken down so you never feel overwhelmed.”

And for Mette Baillie, who has been creating gowns at Freja Designer Dressmaking since 1998, another special element of going bespoke is it won’t date because often “you don’t end up choosing what is this season’s big thing.”

She says, “You choose details and elements which reflect your style and ideas.”

Timeframe

Once you’ve decided you want to have your dress designed it’s important to leave enough time.

Megan normally recommends leaving no less than six months before your big day to begin the process.

But she says many brides are eager to begin before then so they can start to see their design coming to life.

And for Mette it’s important to consider the time of year you’re getting married, so she recommends starting 12 months in advance.

“If you have your wedding in December your dress will be seen in all kinds of artificial light, whereas if your wedding is in June, it will pretty much only be seen in daylight,” she says.

“Your skin colour will be similar if you shop a year ahead. And the amount of skin you would like to have on display, will feel similar to what it will be like in the same month, the next year.”

Inspiration

What happens if you have a vague idea of what you’d like but want to get up close with some gowns for inspiration?

Both designers carry a small collection in their boutiques for brides to get an idea of different styles.

“Most of [ours] are sort of pieces, building blocks of dresses, think ‘lego dresses’,” says Mette.

“That way you can try a lot of combinations with different skirts, tops and belts and create your own style.”

At NutMeg Couture Bridal it’s a similar story with a diverse range of styles and fabrics to try.

Among the gowns on display you’ll find Megan’s own wedding dress, naturally her very favourite of all the dresses she’s designed over the years.

“I fell in love with this lace that had birds and flowers all over it and layered it with beautiful mocha Chantilly lace, sequin tulle and a delightfully soft chiffon that was just so comfortable and light to wear on the day,” she smiles.

Megan paired her stunning gown with a cape which she could detach from her shoulders.

“This, along with my gown, had hand-stitched 3D flowers and beadwork added.

“My talented pal Christina from Laila Lettering also created beautiful calligraphy which we then applied onto the veil with Swarovski crystals.

“The lace was all stitched on by hand and it was a lot of work, but to this day I still love looking at it displayed in the boutique.”

The process

You’re now convinced that bespoke is the route for you. But what exactly is involved?

It all begins with a design consultation where you will discuss ideas and your vision.

Mette starts with an initial phone call or zoom chat to find out what style of wedding you’re planning, be it an elopement in Glencoe or a full cathedral ceremony in a big city.

She also likes to get a sense of your interests and a rough idea of your size and body shape.

From there she will work on a brief to show the bride at their first meeting where the idea will be refined further.

When creating the sketched designs, Megan will pair them with beautiful fabric, lace and embellishment samples for the bride to review.

Then once the design has been agreed on the ‘toile’ is made.

The toile is a mock-up gown made from cotton and at this stage, Megan explains, brides can still change anything from necklines and fit to style.

“Choosing fabrics is an element that sits seamlessly alongside the mock-up stage, she says.

“As the final gown design becomes clearer, brides are presented with a range of gorgeous samples and professional advice on which fabric will work best.”

With the design tweaked on the toile and the fabrics chosen the final gown is cut and started, and the bride will be invited back once more.

“This is a really exciting moment,” says Mette. “You will really start to see your dress take shape and see the real fabric, and how it hangs and drapes on you.

“There will not be any zip or buttons or hem done at this stage, but we will mark where they are all going to be placed.

“We will put pins in again with any details we add, like bows, lace edges and similar.”

All final adjustments are then made to finish the dress.

And the result?

“A completely unique gown that reflects every bride’s individual style,” says Megan.

Would your consider having a dress designed for you?

See more examples of Megan’s work and Mette’s work